Throughout the project I have borne in mind health and safety. When going out on photo shoots in the outdoors and parking up at the side of a road, I made sure I didn't just throw the car anywhere it could cause a problem. Likewise with myself, I made sure I was safely in verges and if I did need to be in the road, make sure nothing was coming.
With my camera also, I made sure I didn't run with it whilst around my neck otherwise a little fall could have caused me and the camera much damage. I always had the camera around my neck never just holding it incase I dropped it.
Whilst in the studio, I took care to ensure there were no trip hazards, that I didn't touch the fronts of lights that were hot, that I didn't swing the lights around on their frames carelessly. When my models were in the studio I made sure that if I put them on furniture or used props, I did so in a responsible manner. Similarly when photographing Melissa I made sure we didn't stay out too long in the snow especially at the end when she was lying on the floor! Also I stood on a stool to photograph her from above, so I made sure the stool was sturdy and that I did not lose my balance and topple on her ! She was grateful for this!!
Wednesday, 26 January 2011
Quality Checking
Through out the project after taking photographs I have viewed them actual size in the software to ensure they were not blurred or pixelated. I reviewed all my photographs after taking them on the Canon software. Also if I was on a photo shoot with one of my models, I would view the photographs on the camera to ensure I had obtained the one image I was happy with. With 3 models I took about 300 photographs during each shoot so I had a good choice of image. During the taking of photographs I would change settings on the camera if I thought an image too dark or light.
With the printing, I have purchased a quality paper to ensure good colour results. The paper was HP.
With the printing, I have purchased a quality paper to ensure good colour results. The paper was HP.
The last post .....Wednesday 26th January
It's 7.25 pm and this is the very last post for this project. I have printed my final 6 images this evening and am happy with the results.
Tuesday, 25 January 2011
Last update (hopefully!)
It is 9.04 pm Tuesday night and hand in night is tomorrow. I feel I have done all I can. I have just one photograph to mount this evening and then print out my 6 images tomorrow at College.
Monday, 24 January 2011
Update - 10.40 pm 24th January
Have been working on blog since Friday pretty much non stop. Computer has nearly blown up. I thought I had a good plan of saving all my posts as draft and then re posting in order thinking they would then come up in the right order - they don't so pretty much a waste of time really ! All 6 prints done, all 4 manipulated done and ready for printing. Due to lateness of finishing not going to be able to send them off for printing so have to do at College. Feel like I am nearly there. Working tomorrow so no time during day to do any more but tomorrow night that will be it.
Lenses
The job of a lens is to control light. It does this with the aperture setting on the lens. I am not going to explain how the light works suffice to say that it in involved refraction and lots of other detailed information which is more than required for this task. What I do understand though is the difference in the lenses and which one I would use for what I am photographing.
There are 3 main types of lens for 35mm cameras: Standard, Wide Angle and Telephoto. A standard lens has a focal length of 50mm; wide angle is anything with a focal length of less than 50mm typically 28mm and telephoto lens is anything greater than 50mm. These lenses have different shapes and it is these shapes that dictate what can be captured. For example at 50mm lens has a view of 45 to 50 degrees - I have heard a saying that a standard lens sees what you can see. My eyes can't see clearly something that is say 300 yards away but with a telephoto lens my eyes could see clearly. Similarly with a wide angle lens my eyes can't focus on something that expands to the left and right of my normal visiion however with a wide angle lens it can.
In addition there are also fish eye lens and macro lens. A fish eye lens tends to give a distorted look to a photograph. Macro lenses are for close up photography: good for insects, butterflies, tops of flowers or anywhere that you want to focus close to your subject.
On a lens you will see the make, the type of lens, the focal length range.
There is also a button for selecting whether you want the lens to auto focus or manual focus (unless you are using an old manual camera (on my first film SLR it was a totally manual camera so there was no AF/MF button)).
It is a good idea to protect your lens with a UV filter which can reduce reflections from non metalic surfaces such as glass and water. You can also buy many different filters to give different effects to your photographs. For film SLRs if you are using black and white film you can buy for example a red filter which can give a stormy look to your image. Other filters include colour ones (yellow, green, orange, red, blue) which are predominatly for black and white, soft focus. A tip I have been told is to carry vaseline around with you and this can be use on a lens to give a foggy/softer focus but I would only recommend this if you have a UV filter on and not put vaseline directly onto the lens.
There are 3 main types of lens for 35mm cameras: Standard, Wide Angle and Telephoto. A standard lens has a focal length of 50mm; wide angle is anything with a focal length of less than 50mm typically 28mm and telephoto lens is anything greater than 50mm. These lenses have different shapes and it is these shapes that dictate what can be captured. For example at 50mm lens has a view of 45 to 50 degrees - I have heard a saying that a standard lens sees what you can see. My eyes can't see clearly something that is say 300 yards away but with a telephoto lens my eyes could see clearly. Similarly with a wide angle lens my eyes can't focus on something that expands to the left and right of my normal visiion however with a wide angle lens it can.
In addition there are also fish eye lens and macro lens. A fish eye lens tends to give a distorted look to a photograph. Macro lenses are for close up photography: good for insects, butterflies, tops of flowers or anywhere that you want to focus close to your subject.
On a lens you will see the make, the type of lens, the focal length range.
There is also a button for selecting whether you want the lens to auto focus or manual focus (unless you are using an old manual camera (on my first film SLR it was a totally manual camera so there was no AF/MF button)).
It is a good idea to protect your lens with a UV filter which can reduce reflections from non metalic surfaces such as glass and water. You can also buy many different filters to give different effects to your photographs. For film SLRs if you are using black and white film you can buy for example a red filter which can give a stormy look to your image. Other filters include colour ones (yellow, green, orange, red, blue) which are predominatly for black and white, soft focus. A tip I have been told is to carry vaseline around with you and this can be use on a lens to give a foggy/softer focus but I would only recommend this if you have a UV filter on and not put vaseline directly onto the lens.
TASK 3 - Introduction to Depth of Field and Shutter Speed
For task 3 we had to produce 2 images of wide and narrow depth of field and 2 images using slow and fast shutter speeds.
For wide and narrow depth of field I went out into the countryside and for the shutter speed tasks I went for traffic as it moved both fast and slow. Using a slow shutter speed I was able to obtain a photograph of a car which blurred. Using faster shutter speed I was able to freeze some cars.
With wide depth of field I aimed to get as much in the frame in focus as I could. With narrow depth of field I aimed only to get the snout of the pig in focus and blur the background.
My photographs are shown below and further details of camera settings are included. The camera I used was the previously mentioned loan Canon 450d. I did not use a tripod for any of these photographs.
For wide and narrow depth of field I went out into the countryside and for the shutter speed tasks I went for traffic as it moved both fast and slow. Using a slow shutter speed I was able to obtain a photograph of a car which blurred. Using faster shutter speed I was able to freeze some cars.
With wide depth of field I aimed to get as much in the frame in focus as I could. With narrow depth of field I aimed only to get the snout of the pig in focus and blur the background.
My photographs are shown below and further details of camera settings are included. The camera I used was the previously mentioned loan Canon 450d. I did not use a tripod for any of these photographs.
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